Som Tum Jae Kai

Som Tum Jae Kai is a family-run Isaan restaurant on Asavamit Road in Udon Thani that has been a local lunch habit for around half a century. It is listed in the 2026 Michelin Guide.

What sets it apart is the fermented fish sauce, or pla ra, which the family makes itself and which gives the salads a deep, funky flavour. The mixed som tam with pork crackling and fermented sausage is the dish most people come for. Expect a busy, no-frills dining room that closes in the afternoon.

What to order

• Som tum ruam: mixed papaya salad with pork crackling and fermented sausage
• Gai yang: grilled chicken, the natural partner to som tam
• Khao niao: sticky rice in a basket
• Larb or nam tok: herb-packed meat salads with toasted rice

Good to know

• Go for lunch, as it closes at 16:00.
• Bring cash.
• Say how spicy you want your som tam before ordering; the default can be fierce.