ตุ๋นและพะโล้

Slow braises are the quiet side of Thai cooking, and many come from the Chinese communities who settled in the country's ports and mining towns. Pork belly and pork leg are simmered for hours in soy sauce, sugar and spices until the sauce turns dark and glossy.

Moo hong, from Phuket's Peranakan community, is the example here: pork belly braised with a whole head of garlic and plenty of black pepper. It is simple to make and, like most braises, better the next day.

The recipes explain how to caramelise the sugar without burning it, how to tell when the meat is tender, and what to serve with a rich braise: jasmine rice and something sharp, such as pickled mustard greens, to cut through the fat.

Braises are the most forgiving dishes in Thai cooking: they wait happily on a low heat, reheat well and taste better the next day. They are also the easiest way to cook a Thai meal for a crowd, with rice, a sharp pickle and a simple vegetable stir-fry alongside.