ผัด

Stir-frying arrived in Thailand with Chinese cooks and became the basis of the country's quickest, most popular dishes. Everything happens in a minute or two in a very hot wok, so the ingredients and sauce are prepared before the heat goes on.

This collection includes pad kra pao, the minced meat and holy basil stir-fry that is probably Thailand's most ordered lunch, and kua kling from the south, where minced pork is dry-fried in a fiery turmeric curry paste until every grain is coated.

The recipes explain how to mix the sauce in advance, how much oil a Thai stir-fry really needs, why the basil goes in after the heat is off, and how to fry the crisp-edged egg that is served on top of so many of these dishes.

All of these dishes depend on a very hot wok and quick hands. If your hob is not powerful, cook in smaller batches, let the wok heat until it just smokes before the oil goes in, and keep everything moving. The sauces can be mixed in advance, which makes them ideal for weeknights.