Victory Monument Boat Noodle Alley

Just off the Victory Monument roundabout, a short lane along Khlong Samsen is lined with shops selling kuay teow ruea, or boat noodles. The dish began with vendors cooking from small boats on central Thailand's canals, and when trade moved onto land, this spot became one of Bangkok's best-known homes for it.

Bowls are deliberately small, a habit from the days when large servings would slop over the side of a rocking boat, so diners order several and pile up the empties. The broth is dark and rich with spices and is often deepened with blood. Shops such as Ruea Thong have traded here for decades, and the lane is busiest at lunch and after work.

What to order

• Kuay teow ruea moo: pork boat noodles in a dark, spiced broth
• Kuay teow ruea neua: the beef version, with sliced and stewed beef
• Moo krob or pork crackling as a crunchy side
• Thai iced tea or a herbal drink to cool the heat

Good to know

• Order two or three bowls each to start; most people end up eating five or more.
• Take BTS to Victory Monument and follow the skywalk towards the canal on the Phahonyothin side.
• Go at lunch or early evening, when turnover is high and the broth is freshest.