Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak (Cowboy Hat Lady)

Khao kha moo is pork leg braised slowly in soy, spices and sugar until the meat falls apart and the skin turns soft. At the Chang Phueak Gate night market, on the northern side of the old city, one stall is famous for it above all others.

It is run by a cook known to visitors as the Cowboy Hat Lady for the hat she always wears. Her stall appears in many Chiang Mai food guides and draws both locals and tourists every evening.

Seating is at plastic tables among the other stalls at the gate. Plates are cheap, service is quick and the atmosphere is pure night market.

What to order

• Khao kha moo: braised pork leg over rice, with meat and skin
• Add a braised egg to the plate
• Pickled mustard greens and fresh chilli on the side
• The chilli vinegar sauce, spooned over the pork to cut the richness

Good to know

• The stall sets up in the late afternoon and runs into the night; come early evening for the best choice.
• Bring small notes; it is a cash street stall.
• Combine it with other stalls at the gate market, which is busiest after dark.