Somtum Der (Sala Daeng)

Somtum Der opened in 2012 in a small shophouse on Sala Daeng Road and became a reference point for northeastern Thai food in central Bangkok. Papaya salads are pounded to order in a mortar, in versions that run from mild and sweet to sharply sour with fermented fish sauce.

The brand later travelled to New York, Tokyo and Taipei; its New York branch won a Michelin star in 2015 and closed in May 2026, but the original Bangkok room carries on. It is run by the same group behind Supanniga Eating Room and was renovated in 2022 for its tenth anniversary.

What to order

• Tum Thai Kai Kem: classic papaya salad topped with salted egg
• Tum Kaopod Kai Kem: spicy sweetcorn salad with salted egg
• Moo Ping Kati Sod: grilled pork skewers marinated in coconut milk
• Sapoak Gai Tod Der: the house fried chicken thigh
• Suea Isan Wagyu Yang: charcoal-grilled Isaan wagyu brisket with a bitter, spicy dip

Good to know

• BTS Sala Daeng Exit 4 and MRT Silom Exit 2 are both a short walk away.
• Last orders are at 22:15; book through the restaurant's website or Chope for evenings.
• Tell staff how much heat you want, as salads come properly spicy by default.