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Aroy Mak Mak

Durian

ทุเรียน

Thurian: the “king of fruits”, custardy and famously pungent.

Durian

Durian is the king of fruits, and the most argued-about food in Southeast Asia. Its spiky husk holds pods of creamy, custard-like flesh that people describe as anything from heavenly to rotten onions. The smell is so strong that durian is banned on public transport and in many hotels.

Thailand is the world’s largest durian exporter, and in season Thais queue at orchards and roadside stalls to buy the best fruit.

Pronunciationtoo-rian
FlavourRich, sweet and custardy, with notes of caramel, almond and onion
SeasonApril to August; east first, then the south
EatenFresh, with sticky rice, in desserts and as dried chips

Varieties

  • Monthong (“golden pillow”): the most common; large, thick, mild and sweet, with a gentle smell. A good first durian.
  • Chanee: smaller, softer, stronger-smelling and more bitter-sweet; loved by enthusiasts.
  • Kanyao (“long stem”): rich, creamy and expensive.
  • Puang Manee: small, very sweet and creamy.
  • Nonthaburi durians: rare, prized and very expensive, from historic orchards near Bangkok.

How Thais eat it

Mostly fresh, at the stall or at home. In season, durian is served with sweet coconut sticky rice (khao niao thurian), much like mango sticky rice. It is also made into durian paste (thurian kuan), ice cream and crispy fried durian chips.

Choosing one

Buy from a stall where the seller opens the fruit for you and packs the pods in a sealed box: that is how most Thais buy it. The flesh should be thick, creamy-yellow and soft, without dark or watery patches. If you buy a whole fruit, a good one smells strongly at the stem and sounds hollow when tapped.

Before you buy

Eat it outdoors or keep it tightly sealed. Do not take it into hotels, taxis or the Skytrain: you can be fined. Many Thais also advise against drinking alcohol with durian.

Cook’s tip

Start with Monthong. Its milder smell and sweet, thick flesh make it the easiest introduction, and you can work up to the stronger varieties.

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