Nam Prik Pao

Nam prik pao is the most versatile of the Thai chilli pastes. Despite the name, it is not very hot: it is a dark, glossy, sweet and smoky paste, sold in English as “chilli paste in soybean oil” or simply “chilli jam”.

How it is made

Pao means roasted or burnt. Dried long chillies, shallots and garlic are roasted or fried until deeply browned, then pounded with dried shrimp, shrimp paste, tamarind, palm sugar and fish sauce, and slowly fried in oil until thick and dark. The roasting gives it its smoky taste and its deep red-brown colour.

How to cook with it

It is what gives tom yum its red colour and roundness, especially the creamy (nam khon) style; stir in a tablespoon at the end of cooking. It is also the base of yam dressings such as yam pla muk (squid salad) and the classic yam with crispy rice, and goes into stir-fries such as pad prik pao with chicken or seafood and cashew chicken (gai pad med mamuang).

At home, Thais eat it as a relish with rice and an omelette, or spread on toast or crackers, the way other people use jam.

Buying and storing

Sold in jars in Asian grocers; Pantainorasingh and Maepranom are widely available Thai brands. Keep it in the fridge once opened. The layer of oil on top protects it, and it keeps for months.

Making your own

Homemade nam prik pao is far better than most bought versions and keeps for weeks. Fry 10 deseeded dried long chillies, 10 shallots and 10 garlic cloves (sliced) separately in oil until golden, pound or blend them with 2 tbsp dried shrimp and 1 tsp shrimp paste, then cook the paste gently in the frying oil with 3 tbsp palm sugar, 2 tbsp tamarind water and 2 tbsp fish sauce until thick and dark.

Cook’s tip

Use the oil from the top of the jar to start a stir-fry. It is already flavoured with chilli, garlic and shallot.