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Aroy Mak Mak

Khao Soi Gai (Chiang Mai Curry Noodles)

Northern Thailand’s curry noodle soup: chicken legs in a rich coconut curry over soft egg noodles, topped with a nest of crispy fried noodles.

Prep Time
30 min
Cook Time
60 min
Servings
4
Difficulty
Medium
Region
Northern Thailand
Condiments
Fish Sauce, Palm Sugar, Thai Soy Sauces
Vegetables
Thai Shallots, Garlic, Fresh Turmeric, Ginger, Dried Red Chillies, Pickled Mustard Greens
Fruits
Coconut, Lime
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Aroy Mak Mak
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Khao Soi Gai (Chiang Mai Curry Noodles)

Ingredients

  • Paste: 5 dried long red chillies, soaked and chopped
  • Paste: 4 small shallots and 5 cloves garlic
  • Paste: 3 cm fresh turmeric (or 1 tsp ground) and 2 cm ginger
  • Paste: 1 tsp coriander seeds, 1 black cardamom pod (seeds only), toasted and ground
  • Paste: 1 tbsp mild curry powder
  • 4 chicken legs (drumstick and thigh), separated
  • 800 ml coconut milk
  • 500 ml chicken stock
  • 2 tbsp fish sauce
  • 1 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp palm sugar
  • 500 g fresh flat egg noodles
  • Oil for deep-frying
  • To serve: pickled mustard greens (chopped), sliced shallots, lime wedges, chilli oil

Instructions

Khao soi is the dish people travel to Chiang Mai for. The broth is a curry, but a looser, spicier one than central Thai curries, with a dose of curry powder and black cardamom that shows its Burmese and Yunnanese influences.

The toppings are not optional: the sour pickled greens, raw shallot and lime cut through the richness, and the crispy noodles give you something to crunch.

Method

  1. Blend or pound all the paste ingredients into a smooth paste, adding a splash of water if needed.
  2. Take 100 ml of the thickest coconut milk from the top of the can and heat it in a large pot until it bubbles and the oil separates. Add the paste and fry for 5 minutes, stirring, until dark and fragrant.
  3. Add the chicken and turn to coat it in the paste. Pour in the rest of the coconut milk and the stock, bring to a simmer, and cook gently for 40–45 minutes until the chicken is very tender.
  4. Season with fish sauce, soy sauce and palm sugar. The broth should be rich, salty and slightly sweet, with a warm, gentle heat.
  5. Meanwhile, take about a quarter of the noodles and deep-fry small handfuls in oil at 180°C until golden and crisp, about 1 minute. Drain on paper.
  6. Cook the remaining noodles in boiling water for 1–2 minutes and divide between deep bowls.
  7. Put a chicken leg in each bowl, ladle the curry broth over and top with a nest of crispy noodles. Serve with pickled greens, shallots, lime and chilli oil on the side.

Cook’s tips

  • Fresh egg noodles are best, but dried egg noodles work; cook them just under the packet time.
  • The broth keeps for 3 days in the fridge; fry the crispy noodles fresh.
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Aroy Mak Mak

Aroy Mak Mak is a small team writing about the food of Thailand and its neighbours: recipes you can cook at home, guides to the ingredients behind them, and places worth travelling for. The name means "very delicious" in Thai. Every recipe on the site lists its ingredients, timings and method in full, explains the techniques that matter, and suggests substitutes for ingredients that are hard to find outside Thailand. The guides to regions, condiments, vegetables and fruits explain what things are, how they are used and how to buy and store them. Place pages are researched from current sources, including the latest Michelin Guide Thailand, official websites and maps, and give addresses, opening hours and what to order. Where a detail could not be confirmed, it is left out rather than guessed.